Laboratory of the Innovation Company

Our Lab, our expertise…

The company facilities are composed of R&D, Quality Control and formulation laboratories. The Innovation Company® controls all raw materials as well as all final products independently with the only exception of microbiological analyses, which are subcontracted.

The laboratories are equipped of In Vitro, In Vivo and Ex Vivo techniques such as chromatography, spectroscopy, microscopy, rheology and some specific analyses like surface charge, specific surface area or SPF in vitro measurements.

All of these devices are used to develop the best innovative raw materials, concepts and show unique illustrative formulas to our customers.

We welcome our customers to work together in our laboratories in Dreux (28 – France) to discover our products and develop new products with the highest performance.

In Vitro

The Zetasizer Nano ZS is the perfect system for measuring zeta potential, electrophoretic mobility and granulometry of colloids and nanoparticles. With zeta potential measurements, it is possible to predict the stability of emulsions, as well as the aggregation or flocculation of particles, notably physical UV-filters. It is also one way to shorten the stability tests of emulsions.

The DSC 3 is the perfect instrument for thermal analysis. It ensures a follow-up of product behaviour depending on temperature and highlights physicochemical properties such as melting point, recristallisation point, oxydation induction time, glass transition or degradation. It also gives information about the impact of storage conditions on products.
It is thus possible to predict the product behaviour on the skin.

The MCR 302 rheometer is based on both rotational and oscillatory modes. This system characterises the rheological behaviour of chemical components submitted to a strain or stress. Depending on the product type, the rheometer describes viscoelastic properties, gel strength, stability, thixotropy. With the integrated Peltier system, it is possible to perform measurements on a wide range of temperatures. Moreover, the unique powder cell gives specific information about friction and cohesion forces of powders, helping to develop new powder substitutes in addition to their skin feel.

The BET is used to determine the specific surface area and porosity of powders. It allows to follow and enhance the manufacturing process repeatability and reproducibility. It is also essential to adjust the amount of dispersant to use for new formulations.

Chromatography is a technique to separate mixtures of substances on the basis of their molecular structure and molecular composition. HPLC required a solid stationary phase and a liquid mobile phase.
Due to the mobile phase flows through the stationary phase, sample mixture components migrate with different speeds depending on their affinity with phases. Components are separated and identified according to their retention time, intensity and available database. By means of standard samples with known concentrations, it is possible to quantify each component of the initial mixture.

This chromatographic technique uses an immobilized silica on glass plates as a stationary phase and a liquid mobile phase. Components are separated, identified and quantified according to their migration height, spot intensity and standard samples.

GC-MS is a third chromatographic mode, which separates each component of mixtures by means of a volatile gas as mobile phase and a solid stationary phase. After migrating, components form peaks with typical retention time and intensity. Linked to mass spectrometer, each peak is decomposed in mass spectra typical of one substance and identifiable thanks to an available library.

Connected in series, these instruments offer a fast measurement of density and refractive index of liquid or fluid compositions at a specific temperature. Using a low amount of product, both values are determined at the same time. Moreover, refractive index value can reach 1.25, offering the possibility to measure our Fiflow® products and to check their purity contrary to the handheld refractometer (not less than 1.33).

PMA 5 determines flash points of compositions using the Pensky-Martens closed cup. This flammability tester covers a wide range of temperatures (-30°C to 400°C) and tests according to standardized methods for the cosmetic industry (e.g. ISO 2719 A and B). All types of materials can be analyzed, allowing to be compliant with transport regulation by giving information related to section 14 of product safety data sheets.

Because oxidation stability is an important quality criterion, RapidOxy® measures the Oxidation Induction Time of products depending on temperature and pressure. Screening of antioxidants, optimisation of mixtures, shelf-life determination and products valorization are performed with this rancimeter, whose results are complementary to photostability studies.

Labsphere® are in vitro SPF measurement devices. UV-1000 determines the average in vitro SPF value, UVA/UVB ratio (in terms of absorbance) and star category. With Labsphere’s UV-2000S it is possible to work according to the ISO 24443:2012 and achieve an accurate in-vitro SPF, UVA-PF, SPF/UVA-PF ratio, UVA/UVB ratio (in terms of absorbance) and critical wavelength. It is essential for sun care products developed to receive the “very high” sun protection label.

The Suntest solar simulator, type CPS+ is used to measure the photostability of UV-filters. A solar simulator (also artificial sun) is a device that provides illumination approximating natural sunlight. The purpose of the solar simulator is to provide a controllable indoor test facility under laboratory conditions. An irradiation step is also unavoidable to perform an SPF testing according to the ISO 24443:2012.

The CM-600d Spectrophotometer is a handheld, portable measurement instrument designed to evaluate the colour and appearance of various samples. This high precision, reliable spectrophotometer allows users to evaluate, reproduce, and control the colour of pigments. It can also be used to evaluate the transparency of physical UV-filters on the skin. It can also be used to measure the colour changes after irradiation.

The Mastersizer 3000E analyses Particle Size Distribution of components. Covering a range from 10 nm to 1000 microns, it characterizes the composite size and allows to enhance rheology performance of final compositions. Agglomeration of nanoparticles is so accessible to help regulatory requirements.

The Karl Fischer is a titrator measuring with precision the water content of all types of products. Expressed in percentage or ppm, the result gives more indications on loss on drying measurement.

This titrator performs automatic dosages and calculations of acid, peroxide, saponification and iodine values. The electrode and solvent used have to be adapted to the type of intended measurement.

U-3000 spectrophotometer is equipped with integrating sphere. It gives absorption spectrum depending on wavelength in order to determine the maximal absorption wavelength of coloured dispersions. In terms of quality criteria, it offers the possibility to conclude that there is no aromatic compounds in our oils.

The Infra-Red Spectrophotometer is essential for a relevant quality control of products. Measuring a large section of IR spectra, it determines chemical functions of a product and helps to identify an unknown product or impurities.

The optical microscope, often referred to as light microscope, is a type of microscope, which uses visible light and a system of lenses to magnify images of small samples. This is an ideal method rapidly evaluate an emulsion structure and stability, which are important when analyzing SPF in vitro values.

In Vivo

Vivascope® 1500 confocal reflectance microscope is designed for in vivo and ex vivo uses. Confocal laser scanning microscopy opens a “window into the skin” without being invasive – i.e. without damaging the skin. This innovative imaging method depicts the structure of skin. The confocal image shows each individual skin layer from Stratum Corneum to the reticular dermis in horizontal sections. For the first time, an optical biopsy in real time is possible. Based on refractive index, it offers the possibility to observe skin components such as corneocytes, keratinocytes,melanocytes or collagen network.

SEM provides detailed high-resolution images of the sample by rastering a focused electron beam across the surface and detecting secondary or backscattered electron signal. An Energy Dispersive X-Ray Analyser, EDX, is also used to provide elemental identification and quantitative compositional information. This is an ideal technique to analyze the distribution of physical UV-filters in an emulsion or on the skin.

DermaLab® SkinLab Combo is a non-invasive method, which makes it possible multiparameter skin analysis. Indeed, with only one device, it offers the possibility to measure many skin parameters such as elasticity, hydration, sebum or skin colour thanks to a probe associated. A camera shows the macroscopic skin view with polarized or non-polarized light, while ultrasounds probe quantifies the density of collagen network and skin thickness.

This camera determines the temperature of objects or skin on different possible areas. It allows to have the related image showing temperature variations with a colour scale from grey (low temperatures) to red (high temperatures). In terms of in vivo testing, the purpose is mainly to claim cooling or heating effect of products on the skin.