A return to science to improve your health and safety by observation of In Situ & In Vivo tested skin protection. 

Alain Saintrond, founder of The Innovation Company®, tells us about the creation of SkyEquilibrium®.

“I have been involved since 1992 with cosmetic Sun Care and Protection. It is how I met my wife Jaana, who worked back then at Kemira Pigments, Pori, Finland.

The physical filters used at this time were Nanofine UV Titan materials.
Japanese companies dominated the market place but they were weak concerning effective texture formulation and lower photo-stability.

By 1994, we bought our first Zeta Potential analyser, with a PSD (Particle Size Distribution) down to 3 nanometers. Using our equipment and knowledge, we could control SPF value by measuring Zeta Potential and photostability of UV Titan. Much was learnt from this, and with a short period of time, more international companies were buying our UV Titan and our composites as Micapoly® UV crystals technology.

By 1997, we were testing SPF and broad UVA values with our first Labsphere® UV-1000; and I had realised that UVR protection analysis was so superior on understanding how best to optimise Sun care formulas.

By 2019, I trademarked “SkyEquilibrium®” to define our new thinking and by now, to fully profit from what is probably currently the best UVR cosmetic laboratory in the world.

Simply said, analysis is the basis of observations and some conclusions leading to a theory and then to demonstrate them.

Here the impertinent question was a simple one: What actually happens to the dermal, epidermal cells, and melanocytes?

The tests methods are multiple:

  • Photostability as based on ISO 24443:2 test method
  • OSI stability
  • BET of minerals batches used
  • PSD of mineral filters dispersions and composites
  • Rheology
  • Tribology for texture
  • IR values before and after sun exposure
  • Microcirculation before and after sun exposure
  • “Melanocytes Number Counting” before and after seven days
  • In Vitro SPF measurement
  • Zeta Potential values to achieve stabilities or enhance “Skin Flux Diffusion”

And so much more over the last 28 years…

So, what are we learning with SkyEquilibrium® test methods?

  • That no filters have the same MNC (Melanocytes Number Count), done by DLCM with AI recognition.
  • That altitude, air pressure, humidity and photostability affect organic filters results.
  • That OSI testing should be a must for organic filters because the higher the OSI (Oxygen Stability Index) the better for skin protection.
  • That high SPF values are the most effective anti-age skin care, which we call Anti-Age Factor®.
  • That UVA photon activity is deeper.
  • That UVB can be made to last to be blocked out only with minerals.
  • Those organic filters tend to improve hydration more than mineral filters, unless the mineral formulas are boosted with hydration agents, water or lipids.
  • That “Skin Flux Diffusion” is essential for longer lasting organic protection.

And to not go on forever, that science actually is the only avenue to bring safety to consumers skin against UVR. When it comes to Sun care, size actually matters. Indeed, nanofine mineral filters are the only ones that can protect from UVA and UVB rays. Pigments only protect from visible light. Only nano-filters are GRASE, not the pigmentary grades… Also, the only way to get nano-filters through the skin is with a tattoo artist (Iron Blue – the classic blue tattoo colour – is a nano-material of about 26nm crystal size).

Numbers talk, as does Skin Physics.
Last year, in the USA, melanoma figures were estimated at over 105 000 cases, with a death rate of 6,9%. SkyEquilibrium® is a test method to help fighting this devastating disease.

SkyEquilibrium® allows to see, and live better safely. Not just think it. Away from charters that simply are endangering your skin, but potentially your lives.

Finally, I would like to thank two great cosmetician specialists who I had the chance to work with, Jean-François Tranchant (Sadly passed away this year, Christian Dior) and Dr André Brin (Dr. Payot). And of course Jaana whose expertise in in-organic chemistry has allowed us to help million consumers over the years.”

Alain Saintrond,
The Innovation Company®.