TID: What is the most efficient cosmetic active and GRASE?

How could we define our "Blue Planet", if no Oxygen would be present? There would be no life, no breath, as we know. 

The fastest and most effective instantaneous skin active ingredient is a gas called Oxygen (actually, dioxygen), which is natural in cosmetics.

Oxygen and our skin is the story of skin breathing. The goal is to obtain a greater volume of Oxygen and a greater weight of Oxygen per day compared to a monthly facial treatment.

In the medical world, doctors check every day the Oxygen levels in patients blood, and now, some lucky health watches owners can control this rate too at any time.

In DLC Microscopy, based on In Vivo and In Situ observation, an extremely high Oxygen level is generally observed in the capillary response of the blood during a cut for example. In fact, thanks to the diffusion of gases, the Oxygen present in the air is “added” to that present in the capillaries (the level of Oxygen present in the air being higher than the level present in the blood capillaries), producing almost instantaneously a benefit for the structure of the damaged dermis. This rapid reaction we have just described is called “Skin Design®“.

“I often think about skin and breathing in the world of cosmetics and the link between them. For good reason, the skin breathes and accounts for almost 7% of the gas respiration in our body.
In formulas, materials are expressed as a percentage or weight. However, we need to change our thinking and think in terms of volume only, or more simply in millilitre.”

Thus, the main phases of the emulsions, water and emollients contain 5 mL of gas. As the Oxygen level of the air is close to 21%, there is therefore only 1 mL of Oxygen in 1000 mL of cream. If we convert this into weight, we obtain 1.429g/L divided by 1000g/L; the impact of cosmetics is very minimal.

Thanks to our In Situ observations of capillary blood flow, it is very easy to see at what level the body system reacts to a cut in the skin (a cut of less than 70 microns, the thickness of a hair, is enough to see the blood).

Oxygen is the main catalyst that allows our body’s immune system to be activated.

Given that, our capillaries have an Oxygen level lower than 21%, let’s say 18%, Oxygen present in the air, during a cut the blood will be more oxygenated by simple diffusion of gas, and an instantaneous defence reaction will then occur. And this is how “Skin Design®” was perceived and conceptualized.

Understanding volume is more essential than a typical OTC 3% weight for activity.

Our skin sees more gas transfer with air and Oxygen, in volume (mL), than any liquid such as perspiration or sebum (in volume too).

Let’s do a quick calculation. Every day, a standard person with standard activities (not a day of long distance running) draws in 11,000 litres of air. So 7% of 11,000 litres corresponds to 770 litres of air and 21% of O2 corresponds to 162 litres of Oxygen per day. This represents a weight of approximately 200 grammes of Oxygen for the whole skin.


Air and Oxygen are obviously the most important active ingredients for our skin, in volume but also in weight. And at a level that few people have ever imagined.

How to manage this novel huge level of number to process intellectually what is really an efficient skin care?

What counts here, is only to understand the blood response (the microcirculation) to an increase in Oxygen level diffusion into the capillaries, not the actual Oxygen volume stated above.

Next week, we will look at the amount of blood pumped into the facial area each day, and therefore by deduction, the amount of Oxygen needed to stimulate the repair activity of the skin.

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